Bronze is an alloy of copper with other metals that modify its hardness, color, and ability to be cast into a detailed mold. When bronze is cast it is usually a gold color. After the casting and finishing is completed, the surface is often treated with chemicals and heat which patinates the metal, coloring it green, brown, black, or a combination of the colors. Foundries usually apply waxes or other coatings to the surface of a patinated outdoor bronze to protect it from pollutants. This wax may wear off in time. We recommend annual maintenance by a professional conservator. The surface of the sculpture may be washed to remove pollutants and dirt, and waxed. If done annually, the rate of corrosion will be retarded (though not totally eliminated), and disfiguring rain streaks will be minimized. I collect twentieth-century furniture. How can I best preserve it? Some twentieth-century furniture was created from non-traditional materials, such as foam, plastic, and cardboard.

Do not store or display works of art in areas of potentially high humidity or water leakage, e.g. basement, bathroom, outside walls, under pipes. Avoid areas where temperature and humidity fluctuate, or where there is inadequate air circulation, e.g. attic and places listed above. Do not hang artworks over or under radiators, heating and cooling vents, active fireplaces, humidifiers, and vaporizersA. The hygroscopic nature of wood means that it will take water from the atmosphere and expand, but it will contract as the humidity lessens. The direction of shrinkage is almost always around the circumference, which causes a solid piece of wood to crack vertically. Keeping it in a steady relative humidity can stabilize the sculpture; if the wood does not absorb or release moisture, it will no longer expand or contract.

Once a wooden sculpture has been dehydrated cracks will appear, where even exposure to high relative humidity will not make the cracks close up entirely. However, conservators can fill the cracks with a variety of materials to create a unified visual impression. What should I ask for when matting and framing works of art on paper? Mat board should be made from 100% rag or lignin-free cellulose. Sometimes those labelled as "museum board" or "conservation board" are not of the highest quality. Alkaline buffered boards are not sufficient if the board contains wood pulp. Photographs should not be matted with alkaline buffered boards as some prints are adversely effected by alkalinity. Hinges are used to attach the work of art to the backboard of the mat. They should be made of Japanese paper, and should be adhered with wheat starch paste. Pressure sensitive adhesive tapes and pre-gummed tapes should not be used. Photographs are often attached to the mat with photo corners.

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